Worthington Ohio real estate

While black stains on roofs are a cosmetic issue, moss growth is more than just cosmetic.  Not only does moss look terrible on roofs, it will also shorten the life of the roof covering and possibly lead to roof leaks.  Whether you have wood or asphalt shingles, moss can grow on the roof if it doesn't dry properly.

As with black algae stains, the most common place for moss to grow is on the north side of the roof, but if there are enough overhanging trees or other forms of shade, moss can really grow anywhere.  If you want to kill the moss, follow the link above that explains how to remove black roof stains; the process is the same for killing moss.  The results certainly won't be as immediate, but it's effective.  Today, the focus is on what you can do to prevent moss growth on your roof.

Have you ever noticed that moss and black stains don't appear on roofs underneath the areas with galvanized metal?

The roof stays minty fresh zincy fresh below the vents because every time it rains, a small bit of zinc gets washed off the metal, which runs down the roof and kills whatever is growing on the shingles - whether it's moss, algae, lichens... whatever.  If this is so effective, doesn't it stand to reason that you could install strips of zinc along the top of the roof, and have them protect everything?  Of course.  You can actually buy rolls of zinc made just for this purpose.  The 50' roll of zinc pictured below was about $25 at Home Depot.

The zinc is supposed to be installed at the ridges of the roof, or along the hips as needed to make sure that the rainwater washes zinc down the roof.

I've heard many roofers say that these zinc strips are worthless and ineffective, so I decided to conduct my own semi-long term test.  For my experiment, I installed a zinc strip along the ridge of a moss-covered garage roof approximately sixteen months ago.  I didn't do anything else to this roof - no scrubbing, no chemicals, no nothing.  The before and after photos are shown below, and I think the results are pretty conclusive - zinc strips are effective at killing moss.

Before

After

That's a pretty dramatic difference, isn't it?  I cleaned up the roof a bit before taking the second photo by using a leaf blower, but that was all.  Remember, I applied that zinc strip to a roof covered in moss just to see what would happen; zinc strips aren't supposed to be used as a moss remover, they're supposed to be used as a moss preventer.  If you're not in any hurry, they'll apparently remove moss too though.

As they say, individual results may vary.  Zinc strips might not work for every application, but they're not terribly expensive, and they're not difficult for a roofer to install.  If you have an existing roof with a moss problem, try zinc strips.  Copper strips are supposed to work the same way.

Zinc strips are also supposed to be effective at preventing black stains from showing up on the roof.  I'm starting a long-term experiment on my own house; I'll report back with the results in a couple years.

Stay tuned  

 

Reuben Saltzman, Structure Tech Home Inspections - Email - Minneapolis Home Inspector

        

What are cobwebs?  And why do they appear in houses?  What does a multiplicity of cobwebs mean?

As regards cobwebs, the word cob has nothing to do with corn!  It probably originated with an Old English word - "COPPE," which meant spider.  So the word "cobweb" might just be a sloppy way of saying coppweb.

Cobwebs look like hanging clumps of silky spider web material.  That's what they are!  They are what is left after a spider abandons a web.  It may be that the spider sabotages a couple of the structural, hanging points of the web so no other interloper can take advantage of the web being abandoned. 

What kinds of spiders produce cobwebs?  Are there "cobweb spiders?"  Yes, and they make up the family Theridiidae.  One of the most common house spider in the United States is Achaearanea tepidariorum, of this family.  The infamous Black Widow spider, Latrodectus mactans, also belongs to this family.

On the particular inspection in the photos above I encountered a number of black widow spiders and what looked like their egg sacks. 

Some cobwebs may not be a part of a previous web at all.  They may instead be a purposeful, hanging clump of silky web material intended to safely house many egg sacks.  Other insects will not bother the eggs as they know what will happen to them in the web!

As they hang there, over time and in the blowing air current, the cobwebs gather dust and become more and more visible.

What does a multiplicity of cobwebs mean?

Simply that the location is a habitat that can support many spiders!

Spiders need moisture, which they can always go outside to obtain, and a food source.

The larger the food source the more abundant the spider population will become!

This house was unkempt, to say the very least, and therefore full, and I mean FULL, of roaches.  It also had a serious termite infestation.

If spiders are well fed, their basic objective in life is to do what all fauna do, make more spiders!

And as the habitat provides more and more opportunity, the spider population will increase.

Spiders build webs near moving air.  They do that instinctively.  If the air is moving it is hoped an insect will fly by.  The web is built to capture as much of the air current as possible, in the continued hopes that it will capture food.

If the web comes up empty for a period of time, it will be abandoned.  And maybe partially dismantled.

However, if another spider senses that this is a good place for a web, it will ignore the fact that a previous web was made and build a new one. 

That one might be abandoned as well, and the cycle continues.  Eventually there is a multiplicity of cobwebs, getting dirtier and dirtier with floating dust, and more and more visible.

Of course, if the food is crawling by that is good too!  And I can confidently say that a LOT of food was crawling by in this house!

My recommendation:  when you see a cobweb you know there is a moving air source that encouraged a spider web.  A web can be built quickly, even overnight, and you might not even see it until it is abandoned and begins to collect dust.  However, you may want to investigate the reason for its placement.  There is moving air nearby!  That moving air may be because an HVAC register is blowing air in that direction, but it may also be a gap in the exterior skin or around a window or door that should be sealed for energy efficiency also.

 

 

Jay Markanich Real Estate Inspections, LLC

Based in Bristow, serving all of Northern Virginia

www.jaymarinspect.com

Painting, 8 tips to get you started!! As a home stager and redesigner of Abella Home Staging & Redesign, I often recommend painting. Painting is the least inexpensive way to change the look of your home without going broke!! But many times my clients are lost as to where to begin and what they need. Here are some very helpful hints that can get you started.

 

1. Get the right brush. If you don't have the right brush it can make the job more difficult then it has to be. Look for brushes that are tapered, split and set in multiple lengths, this will form a slim tip, good for cutting along the ceiling and doors.
2. Choose the right roller. Synthetic is great for latex. Natural-fiber such as mohair or lamb's wool, for oil paint. There are different thickness to a roller, 3/4" nap for textured wall (stucco, brick), 3/8" to 1/2" nap for lightly textured walls (drywall, wood), 1/8" to 1/4" nap for very smooth surfaces (plaster, laminate, metal). Here's a tip I learned from my husband who was a professional painter. Take blue or masking tape and pull out about 3-4 ft and run the roller over it several times. This will eliminate all the loose lint from the roller so it won't get on your surface!!
3. Pick quality paint. Using inexpensive paint won't save you money, if you have to prime the wall, plus put on two coats of paint and hope for coverage. Using a quality paint with a primer will save you time and money. Making your job easier!! I recommend Sherwin William super paint.
4. Choose between oil or latex. Latex paint is water-based and easier to clean up, and dries quickly. Oil paint is solvent-based, dries slower and must be cleaned up with mineral spirits. It also has a more durable finish.
5. Low VOC. Volatile Organic Compound, gases that are created when using latex paint. A potential hazard to your health. Using low or no VOC won't sacrifice good color or even coverage. 
6. Calculating paint. Divide the square footage of your surface by the coverage per gallon listed on the can. This will give you and idea of how many gallons to purchase. Don't forget to add if it will take two coats.
7. Spout. A lot of companies are now producing cans with a spout, making it easier to pour and prevent the lids from getting clogged.
8. The right finish. Choosing the right sheen for you surface is critical. Low sheen hides imperfections, glossier paint is more wear-resistant but shows all imperfections. Here is a guide to help you choose the right finish.

• Flat. Great for ceilings and high traffic areas.
• Matte. Use for bedroom, living rooms, dining rooms.
• Satin/Eggshell. Good for high traffic areas like foyers.
• Semigloss. Use for trim, doors, and kitchen carbinets.
• Gloss. Good for trim and doors.

These are just 8 tips that can help you get started. I always tell my clients getting started is the hardest part, but i guarantee you that the rewards are worth the effort!!

Toe nailing is a valid carpentry technique.  But for the most part it is a temporary tacking of one thing to another by nailing two things together at an angle.  Then proper attachment can be made.  Toe nailing is seldom, if ever, intended for long-term attachment or support with heavy material.

Walking around this deck, only about 4' high, I noticed that every single guardrail post had been toe nailed to the decking!

Don't trim those toe nails!

You can see how substantially attached that post is to the deck (he sarcastically notes).  Many wobbled a lot!  Rock on dude...

Despite the VERY FINE paint job, this is a huge problem.

Sure, the deck is only 4' high.  Do you want to fall 4', land on top of a broken guardrail, and land at an angle you can't control?

Didn't think so...

Where do people end up when they go out onto a deck?

The guardrail!  They lean.  They put weight.  They ASSUME it's safe.

The code would like the guardrail to easily support about 200 pounds.  That is all well and good.  But often more than one person is leaning against the rail!  Remember, the code is a MINIMUM STANDARD!  And a well-attached, or properly-attached, post can support far more than 200 pounds.  How should deck posts be attached?

There are various ways.

They can be attached on the outside of a joist, or the inside.  Two can be attached surrounding a corner.

BUT ALL MUST BE ATTACHED WITH TWO THROUGH BOLTS THAT ARE SEPARATED FROM THE WOOD WITH LARGE WASHERS.

The bolts, washers and nuts should be of the same material that resists corrosion (stainless steel, galvanized or zinc dipped).  The most common would be galvanized.

Carriage bolts are not good bolts to use!

Why?

The round head is not wide enough and when the nut is tightened the round head actually gets sucked into the wood.  And the square end under the round head does not accept a washer.  Carriage bolt use was emphasized by the engineers at my recent Strong-Tie seminar.  Carriage bolts should not be used for post or beam attachment.

There are other criteria regarding guardrails that are important, but not the point here.

Proper attachment affords strength and safety.  Safety is always the bottom line.

My recommendation:  when you see a deck, have a look!  Feel its strength as you walk on it or carefully lean on the guardrail.  Check attachments.  How does it make you feel?  And get an inspector to have a look see should you put a contract on the house!  Decks COMMONLY have problems.  You want to know what they are!

 

Jay Markanich Real Estate Inspections, LLC

Based in Bristow, serving all of Northern Virginia

www.jaymarinspect.com